If you’ve ever gathered a little flock of chicks and wondered, “What on earth should I feed them so they grow healthy and strong?” then you’re in the right place. I remember when I first brought home a batch of day-old chicks. I felt equal parts excitement and hesitation. I had read some things online, heard some advice from friends, but I still found myself asking: what do baby chicks really need in their diet? What works and what doesn’t?
Over the years, I’ve raised chicks in different ways: some under a broody hen, others in a heated brooder box, and each experience taught me something. In this guide, I’ll walk you through everything—from what baby chicks eat in the wild, to how to feed them in your coop, to choosing the right starter feed, to avoiding common mistakes. My goal: by the end, you’ll feel confident feeding baby chicks so they thrive.
What Baby Chicks Eat in Nature
Let’s start by looking at what chicks would eat if they were simply with their mother in a free-range setting. Observing this really helped me understand what their bodies are built for—and why some feeding practices in managed settings work better than others.
When a mother hen leads her brood, you’ll often see her scratching the ground, turning over leaves, pecking at small insects, worms, even tiny frogs or lizards in some cases. If you’re lucky, you’ll see her chicks doing the same, imitating her movements. They’ll peck at grass, chase down bugs, and nibble plants. The instinct is strong: they’re natural omnivores. They need protein from insects, small creatures, and the occasional greens for vitamins and minerals.
I watched once in the early spring: a hen and her five chicks were out in the yard. The hen pecked at a grasshopper, caught it, ate it. The chicks made a faint but excited “peep-peep”, then started chasing the same grasshopper. They weren’t perfect at it yet—they fumbled, missed—but within minutes they were picking at insect fragments around it. That scene told me a lot: chicks need the opportunity to peck, scratch, and forage. And what they eat in the wild gives clues to the right diet when they’re raised under more controlled settings.
Here are some typical natural diet items:
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Insects (grasshoppers, beetles, ants, larvae)
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Worms and small invertebrates
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Greens and tender plants (grass shoots, clover)
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Occasionally small frogs or mice (older chicks or under free-range)
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Water from natural sources
Why is this important? Because when chicks are raised in a brooder or coop, their feed needs to echo the nutrients they’d naturally get. For example, the insect protein, the greens, the varied texture. If we replicate that in a controlled way, we set them up for healthier growth.
Read Also: https://pollo.info/concentrado-casero-para-pollos
Domestic / Managed Feeding of Baby Chicks
Now let’s switch to the typical scenarios many of us deal with: incubator‐hatched chicks, or chicks under a broody hen but where we still supply feed. The feeding approach will depend on how the chicks came into your care.
Scenario A: Incubator-hatched or purchased chicks
When you buy day-old chicks or hatch them yourself under an incubator, they don’t have a mother hen teaching them to forage. That means you must provide a suitable starter feed immediately, plus water, warmth, and safe housing.
Here’s what I do: once the chicks dry out (if hatched) and are fluffy, I move them into the brooder box, warm it to around 32–34 °C (about 90–95 °F) for the first few days, depending on breed. I provide a feeder with starter crumble feed (about 20% protein for the first few weeks), and I make sure the waterer is shallow and safe (so they don’t drown). The second they appear active and pecking, I know they’re ready for feed.
One thing I learned early: the moment they start exploring, giving feed right away matters. Some sources say the yolk sac provides nutrients for the first 24–48 hours after hatching. It’s true: chicks still have that reserve. But don’t wait too long—set the feed and water out so they have access when ready. In my first batch I delayed, thinking “they’ll manage”, and had a couple lag behind. After that I was more diligent.
Scenario B: Chicks raised by a mother hen
If a broody hen is raising the chicks, you still need to supply feed—but you lean more on nature. The hen will scratch and forage; the chicks will learn from her. What you do is provide a good quality feed and allow her to lead. I found that when a hen has chicks, she’s calm, confident, and the chicks seem more relaxed and stronger. They pick insects, greens, but still get their starter feed in the box.
Here’s my tip: even if the hen is doing the work, keep the brooder or area clean, make sure feed is always available, and monitor the hen’s behavior. If she isn’t scratching much (maybe too cold, scared, predator nearby), step in with extra feed.
What is starter feed? This is specially formulated for young chicks. It contains higher protein, the right vitamins/minerals, correct balance for growth, and is easy to digest. For example, most adult chicken feeds have too much calcium or too low protein for chicks; using those too early can cause problems.
Nutritional Requirements of Baby Chicks
Understanding what baby chicks need nutritionally will help you choose the right feed and make good decisions when supplementing. Chicks don’t eat like adult chickens. Their bodies are growing fast, and their diet must support that.
Protein
Protein is one of the most important nutrients early on. Many starter feeds contain around 20% protein. Why? Because chicks are building muscle, feathers, bones quickly. In a very short time, they’re changing from fluffy, delicate birds to stronger juveniles. In my own experience, I used a feed with ~18% protein for a slower‐growing breed, and they caught up fine—but for fast-maturing breeds the ~20% was safer.
If you give them feed with too little protein, you’ll see slower growth, weaker feathers, less healthy birds. On the flip side, too much protein for too long (especially after the starter phase) can strain their kidneys or lead to other issues.
Calcium, Vitamins & Minerals
Chicks don’t need the high calcium levels adult layers do (for egg shell formation). Adult layer feed often has 3.5–4% calcium; that’s too high for baby chicks. Too much calcium can cause kidney stress or interfere with other mineral absorption.
Vitamins (A, D, E, B-complex) and minerals like phosphorus, magnesium, etc., are also critical. These support bone development, immune system, feather formation. Many high-quality starter feeds include these in the right ratios. As someone who once tried a “cheaper” feed missing some micronutrients, I learned that chicks showed feather gaps and were less vigorous. Lesson: go with quality.
Water & Feed Access
Never underestimate the importance of clean water. Chicks will eat only if they have access to fresh water. In the first day, even though they may rely on the yolk sac residues, once they start pecking you’ll see more activity if water is available. I once delayed refilling the waterer and noticed one chick drop behind in growth. After providing fresh water immediately, it began catching up.
Growth rate and why early weeks matter
During the first 2–3 weeks, chicks grow extremely fast. Their energy needs are high. Any gap in nutrition, warmth, or access will slow them down or cause health problems. I always monitor their behavior: if they’re huddled, quiet, not exploring or pecking, likely something is off—could be feed, water, warmth, or health. Starting on the right feed from day one sets the tone for healthy development.
Choosing the Right Feed
Now, let’s dig into the practical matter: what feed to buy, what to look for, what to avoid.
Medicated vs Non-Medicated Starter Feed
One recurring question: “Should I buy medicated starter feed?” My take: it depends on your situation.
Medicated starter feed includes treatment (usually for coccidiosis), a common disease in young poultry raised in close quarters. If you’re buying chicks from a hatchery, raising many chicks in a confined brooder, or if your coop isn’t super clean, medicated feed makes sense as a preventative. For example, I once had a brooder with 100 chicks and lots of hustle—they were fed medicated feed for the first 6 weeks and came through strong.
On the other hand, if you hatch your own in a very clean environment, and you’re confident about sanitation, you could use non-medicated feed. I did this with a small batch under a broody hen, free-range style, and it worked fine. The key is cleanliness and monitoring.
Organic Options
If you prefer organic or non-GMO feed, you’ll find starter feeds labelled “organic”, “non-GMO”, “soy-free”, etc. These often cost more. I tried an organic starter once for a small batch of heritage breed chicks. They grew well, but I still kept a supplement handy. My advice: if budget allows and you’re aiming for premium, go for organic. If not, a standard high-quality starter feed is perfectly fine.
Feed Form (Crumble, Mash, Pellets)
For baby chicks, crumbly feed is best. Why? Because they can’t handle large pellets yet. Crumble means small pieces, easy to peck. Mash is even smaller, sometimes used if chicks are very tiny or if you slice pellets. I use starter crumble for the first 6 weeks. After that, I transition to grower feed which might be pellets or crumbles (depending on breed, size, and management).
Functional tips:
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Make sure the feed is fresh (check manufacture date).
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Store feed dry and safe from rodents/insects.
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Place feeders at chick-level (so they don’t tip over or struggle).
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Put waterers nearby so they can find both easily.
Reading the Feed Label
Before buying, check label: look for “Starter Feed” or “Chick Starter”, protein % (aim ~20%), calcium % low (not adult layer level), “Complete feed” (so you don’t need extra vitamins for first weeks). Also see if it says medicated or not, organic or conventional.
I once bought a generic feed labelled “Poultry Starter” but it had only ~16% protein and almost adult-calcium levels. Chicks were slower, weaker; I switched feed mid-week and saw improvement within days. Learned to always check the numbers.
Transitioning Feeds and Feeding Schedules
One thing many overlook: feeding is not static. It changes as chicks grow, as their environment changes, and as they become free-range.
When to Start Feeding
As soon as chicks come into your care and are alert, you should provide feed and water. If they’re newly hatched from an incubator they will absorb their yolk sac and have some nutrients, but you still need to give access to feed and clean water within the first 24 hours. I always put a shallow waterer in place before moving chicks into the brooder so they have immediate access.
From Starter to Grower Feed
Typically, around 6 weeks (sometimes 4‐6 depending on breed) you switch from chick starter to grower feed (which might have ~16‐18% protein). For layer breeds, later you switch to layer feed when they begin laying. For meat/dual‐purpose breeds you might switch to a feed higher in energy.
I just watch the birds: when they are growing, alert, feathers filling in, active, and the feed bill is getting bigger, it’s time to transition. I don’t rush it, I offer both feeds side by side for a few days then phase out the starter.
Free-Range Considerations
If chicks are free-ranging (or will soon), their diet will include natural items (insects, greens). This is good—they get variety and stimulation. But you still must supply a base starter/grower feed because you can’t guarantee they will get all nutrients naturally. I had a small flock that I let run in a yard with plenty of grass and bugs. I cut back feed a little once they were older and free-range had kicked in, but I never eliminated it entirely.
Water & Hygiene
Always make sure water is clean and fresh. Chicks drink a lot relative to their size. In brooder setups it’s easy for water to get dirty, feed to clump, or mold to grow. I check feeders daily, clean waterers twice daily for the first week, then daily thereafter. Keep the brooder dry and clean.
Natural Supplemental Foods and Treats
Once you have the basics in place, you might want to give your chicks additional foods—both for enrichment and nutrition. This section covers what you can do and how to do it safely.
Natural Foods
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Insects and worms: if you have a yard where your chicks can scratch, they’ll pick these up naturally. I’ve tossed live mealworms to my chicks at about 3 weeks old and watched them go nuts—they loved it.
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Greens: tiny pieces of lettuce, spinach, clover, grass shoots. I introduced greens around week 3 as small treats.
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Kitchen scraps: small amounts of cooked veggies, rice, oats. Be careful: avoid onions, raw potato skins, salty food, spoiled items.
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Scratch grain: once chicks are a little older (4-6 weeks), you can add scratch grains for enrichment, but in small amounts because it’s low protein compared to starter feed.
Safe vs Unsafe Foods
Important: supplements are not replacements for starter feed. They are extra. You must maintain the balanced feed.
Unsafe items include: mouldy food, spoiled food, onions/garlic in large amounts, salty or sugary human snacks, bread only (low nutrition), large pieces of food they can choke on.
I once gave a handful of bread crumbs (thinking “just for fun”) to 4-week-old chicks. The next morning one was lethargic. I realised bread gave them filler but no nutrition; I removed it, went back to feed + greens, and they bounced back. Lesson: treats are optional extras, not main diet.
Benefits of Allowing Natural Foraging
If your chicks can scratch and peck, they’ll engage in natural behaviours: chasing bugs, exploring ground, learning social hierarchy. That leads to healthier birds mentally and physically. For example, the chicks in my free-range yard developed stronger leg muscles, looked happier, were more alert. Those raised only in a brooder with feed were fine—but I noticed less variety in diet.
Common Feeding Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
Even if you follow the basics, it’s easy to make mistakes. I’ve made many of them and learned. Here are the common ones and how to avoid them.
Using Adult Chicken Feed Too Early
Adult layer feed often has high calcium and less protein suitable for chicks. I once fed adult feed to 2-week-old chicks because “I had it on hand”. A few days later, some chicks developed leg weakness and didn’t grow as fast. I switched to proper starter and they recovered. So: always use chick starter first. Switch later.
Too Much Calcium / Too High Protein for Too Long
As mentioned earlier, high protein is great early, but too much for too long can cause issues. Likewise high calcium early can stress kidneys. Check label, transition at right time.
Over-medicating or Using Medicated Feed Without Need
If your environment is clean, you may not need medicated feed. Over-medicating can wear down immune system or cost extra. On the other hand, if chick density is high, coop is crowded, risk of disease is higher—medicated feed might make sense. I once skipped medicated feed in a large group in a new coop; we had a coccidiosis outbreak. After that I treated future large batches proactively. Clean coop = less risk. Always monitor.
Too Many Treats, Too Little Balanced Feed
Treats are fun but low in some essential nutrients. If chicks fill up on treats and ignore starter feed, you’ll have nutritional gaps. I once gave too many worms and treats to some chicks, and noticed feed intake dropped. I cut back treats, ensured feed was always first option, and they did better.
Poor Water/Feed Hygiene
Dirty feeders lead to mold, bacterial growth, sick chicks. I once had a feeder where droppings mixed with feed; a few chicks got digestive issues. Clean feeders daily, waterers at least twice in first week, then daily. Make sure feeder design prevents spill, tipping.
Not Adjusting Feed as Chicks Grow
Chicks grow fast. If you keep them on the same starter feed for 12 weeks when they should have moved on, you may slow their growth or cause nutrient mismatch. Conversely moving too early can also be bad. I recommend monitoring growth, feathering, activity, and feed intake rather than rigid weeks alone.
Personal Experience and Practical Tips
Let me share some of my own experiences—so you can apply them, learn from my mistakes and successes.
A few years ago I purchased 30 day-old chicks of a dual-purpose breed. I didn’t yet have a mother hen raising them, so I set up a brooder box in my garage (warm, safe, clean). I used a chick starter feed at ~20% protein, shallow waterer, feeders at chick height. The first week I watched closely: they were pecking, drinking, exploring. I had one chick that stayed quiet. I moved it to a smaller warm area with feed and water and watched it carefully. It turned out that chick had gotten chilled and lagged behind; once warmed and feed access was constant, it caught up.
At week four I added some greens (grass shoots from my lawn) and a few live mealworms as treats. They loved the change and seemed more lively. At week six I transitioned them to a grower feed (16-18% protein) and threw open the coop door so they could explore outside during daylight. Their leg muscles improved, they looked robust. I also saw fewer pests in my yard because they were actively scratching.
On another occasion, I let a broody hen raise 12 chicks. I provided feed and water, but allowed her to lead the chicks outside. The difference was clear: those chicks were calmer, more confident, less fearful of new stimuli. I believe the presence of the mother helps behavioural development. However, I still monitored feed intake: I saw that the chicks sometimes followed her too much and neglected the feed bin when it was inside; I repositioned the feeder closer and they adapted.
My key practical tips:
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Warm brooder properly and monitor temperature regularly. Chicks that are too cold or too hot don’t eat properly.
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Feed should always be accessible and fresh.
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Waterers should be shallow and cleaned daily.
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Even if using natural foraging, always supply a balanced starter feed—natural diet can’t guarantee full nutrients every day.
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Transition feeds based on growth and age, not just calendar date.
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Monitor chick behaviour: active, pecking, laughing around—good. Lethargic, huddled, not exploring—something’s off.
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Use medicated feed when risk of disease (crowded brooder, new birds, previous outbreak), else consider non-medicated or organic.
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Store feed in a dry, rodent/insect free place, preferably sealed container.
Conclusion
Feeding baby chicks isn’t complicated—but it does require attention, good quality feed, clean water, proper housing, and timely transitions. Start strong: use a proper chick starter feed that meets their nutritional needs, give them access to clean water, and ensure they have warmth and freedom to peck/explore. Supplement with natural foods for enrichment, but don’t let treats become the bulk of their diet. Monitor behaviour and growth. When ready, transition to grower feed. Keep things clean. With these practices, your chicks will grow into healthy, happy birds.
It’s also worth remembering that nature offers a lot of clues. Observing how a mother hen leads her brood and what the chicks pick up helps you mirror that in your managed setup. My own experience showed that chicks raised by a mother hen often seemed stronger and more confident—but those raised in a brooder with excellent care did great too. The bottom line: give them the right nutrition, access, environment—and they’ll thrive.
FAQ
Q: What should baby chicks eat in the first 24 hours?
A: They will absorb their yolk sac which supplies nutrients for 24-48 hours, but you should still provide a high-quality chick starter feed and clean water so they can begin pecking and drinking when they’re ready.
Q: Can baby chicks eat adult chicken feed?
A: It’s not recommended. Adult feed often has lower protein and higher calcium, which are not ideal for chicks. Feeding adult feed too early can slow growth or cause health issues.
Q: Is medicated starter feed necessary?
A: Not always. It depends on your environment. If you’re raising many chicks, in a crowded brooder, or had disease issues before, medicated feed may be wise. If you have a clean setup and small number of birds, non-medicated may work fine. Always monitor for disease signs.
Q: When can chicks start eating treats?
A: You can begin offering small treats such as greens, tiny insects or mealworms after about 3-4 weeks, once they’re active and eating their starter feed well. But treats should remain a small portion of diet—not replace starter feed.
Q: How do I tell if my chicks are under-fed or malnourished?
A: Signs include slow growth, weak or delayed feathering, chicks that stay huddled, little pecking activity, poor leg strength, pale combs (older chicks). If you observe these, review feed quality, water access, brooder temperature, cleanliness and nutrition.
